Night markets in my backyard: from Taipei to Markham

The HMS Vicky left the Port of Montreal quite a while ago and has docked for a stay in my hometown of Markham, Ont. The town of Markham isn’t on the water, so there no possibility of keeping a boat here. So I’ve docked her in the waters of the nearest body of water: Lake Ontario. While it’s not far, it’s not immediately accessible either. I don’t know where the ship is headed next or when she will sail again. However, I’ll admit I’ve been amiss with making regular trips to keep her shipshape. While I try to answer those questions, I will be bringing some reports from Toronto and its environs. While it’s not travel, I’m here.

A row of stalls at Night It Up! before it got really crowded

My first dispatch comes from my hometown of Markham. Night It Up! (formerly known as Asian Night Market and Toronto Night Market) is an annual festival inspired by the night markets of Asia. The event started in 2002 and has traditionally been held at Metro Square, or Markham’s the Little Taipei. This year it moved to a much bigger space at the Markham Civic Centre.

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New France Ahoy!

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I had a revelation when I realized I would be writing this entry in hip café with free wi-fi. I’m enjoying a big chai latte looking out at the bustling street of brunch-goers and shoppers. There are some bubbles floating by the cafe entrance and, across the street, a poncho-wearing mouse who’s handing out flyers is talking to a headscarf-wearing canvasser for Oxfam. Collectively, I think they’re trying to tell me something. It’s something along the lines of, “Readers, we are not in France anymore.” I’m pleased to announce that for the HMS Vicky is now based out of Montréal, Québec, Canada.

This week I started my internship at enRoute online, the website for enRoute, Air Canada’s in-flight travel magazine. I’m mostly working on the blog right now but I’m sure the full extent of my responsibilities will reveal themselves in the next six months.

First let’s do a little recap and wrap-up.

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This must be it

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It kind of felt like it was the Armageddon. We were huddled in the windowless kitchen of the hostel–a bright, unusually cheerful bunker. Everyone sat around drinking, discussing their plans for the future, trading exit plans and information. We were all glued to the hostel’s four computers and our cell phones. In between our frantic clicking and texting, we ranted out loud to each other about the sheer incredulousness of it all. Except there was no fire ball–everyone’s flight got cancelled because of an Icelandic volcano, that’s all.

For the two-week Easter holiday I decided to go to Spain, a glaring omission in my European travels. I started in Granada and continued to Madrid. On Wednesday April 17, I arrived in Barcelona–my final stop before home. In vacation mode, I had no access to a television and was only intermittently reading the news. At first it a few people had told me their flights were cancelled because of some volcano thing. They all seemed to be going to the U.K., so the full impact didn’t fully register with me. I was impervious to that thought I could be affected by it.

By Friday, there was enough talk about it that I decided to check the status of my flight from Girona to Karlsruhe-Baden, a city in western Germany, which was scheduled to leave Sunday morning. The Ryanair website assured me that while all flights to northern France and northern Germany were cancelled, mine was okay. So I went about my tourist existence without giving it a second thought. When Saturday rolled around, I could no longer be so high and mighty. All flights to France and Germany had been cancelled until Tuesday. In an instant I was in the same predicament as everyone else: scrambling to get home and finding a place to stay until I did.

As the sheer size of the chaos dawned on me, so did the selection of options to get back, each with their unique difficulties. I was able to rebook my flight for Wednesday but waiting for it meant putting myself up in Barcelona until then and risking the possibility the flight could be cancelled again. (Which it was.) But would there any room left in Barcelona’s hostels or had the spaces already been gobbled up already by travelers whose flights were cancelled before mine? How could I get home short of spending hundreds of euros or spending an entire day on a bus?

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Le sacre du printemps

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Wintzenheim – 24/02/2010 

Vie de merde

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Today I finally understood why Albert Camus could write about such length about “the absurd.” He’s French. Of course this revelation came after a dalliance with the Office of Immigration and Integration. The way things work in this country is so preposterous sometimes, it could only be described as absurd. Sometimes the people, offices and bureaucracy make no sense whatsoever. On days like these, when it feels like the entire system has converged against me, I can’t even feel upset. I just feel numb. There’s disbelief, but you just can’t be angry at the absurd.

Here is a list of things that irritate me about France:

-A general lack of communication between people/organizations. This is the worst and most evident when you deal with any government-run organization. New laws get passed and the people whose jobs are to deal with the general public have not received or read the memo. When you meet the rare competent and well-informed worker, even they will tell you that getting things done or approved is a matter of luck. Different French people give you different answers to the same question. In fact the same person will give you different answers the same question. The official word that is posted on government websites takes ages to trickle down and come into effect in real life. The best people to turn to with your questions are other foreigners. Somehow they are always-up-to-date on new laws and procedures and can give valuable advice on how to convince bureaucrats you’re not  just making it all up.

-The inability to say “I don’t know.” Instead of admitting they don’t know the answer to your question and asking someone who does, they often send you off to someone else (usually across town.) Sometimes this is done under the guise of telling you this is the person you who can help you. The other halfo the time, they honestly send you to the person they think can help. Inevitably, this person will not know the answer, do the same and pass you along. It’s the French version of pinball.

-Everything is more complicated than it needs to be. No one does this better than the French. If I need to deal with bureaucracy, I need to leave the house with every single piece of paper I have whether it’s related to the task at hand or not. Every single form requires a stamp or another piece of paper from someone else. Why not make it easy for everyone and making ridiculous and irrelevant demands? I complain about red tape in Canada but lately, I’ve found myself saying, “This would never happen in Canada.” It’s a little sad when you grow to appreciate your home only by living through a lower standard elsewhere.

-Opening hours of offices/stores/organizations. If you want to get something done you either need to get up at 8.00 or do it after lunch. The entire country shuts down at 12.00 and does not start up again until at least 13.30. (Sometimes it takes until 15.00 to get going again.) Everyone is on their lunch break except for restaurants, bakeries and some of the bigger stores. Even some supermarkets close for lunch. This collective shut down makes it impossible to run errands during your lunch break. Things re-open for a few hours and only to close between the hours of 16.30-20.30, depending what it is. Most things are closed by 18.00. Naturally, only restaurants and cafes are open on Sunday. I’ve accidentally showed up at the library on Monday countless times to return books only to find it closed and there are no deposit boxes.

-The lack of English speaking people. Yes, I know I came to France to speak French. But when I’m talking to the director of Office of Immigration, it’s not a language exchange situation. I’d prefer things to be clear, rather than practise my speaking and comprehension skills. How can people who don’t speak English get hired to deal exclusively foreign people? It’s a running joke among my Spanish roommate and her friends that the international relations officer at their university department doesn’t speak English. It’s kind of funny. Except not.

-Grèves. Far be for me to tell people they can’t strike, but the way the French go on strike makes no sense to me. Workers for the trains, schools, libraries go on strike for a day and then resume normal service. How does this help you get your demands? Yes, I am inconvenienced, but too briefly to get really angry about it. This week the school’s cafeteria workers went on strike and German food day was canceled as a result. A few days before the strike, the principal made a cheery announcement about it over the PA, telling everyone to bring sandwiches.

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